A lot of people who haven't been to South East Asia haven't really heard of Laos: a landlocked country bordered by Burma and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east,
Cambodia to the south and Thailand to the west. Those who have heard of it, probably have because of the infamous Vang Vieng tubing (or drinking in the river on a giant rubber ring). I only had time for one Laos destination - and I'm so glad I picked Luang Prabang!
This was one of my favourite stops on the trip. There's a vibe about the place that's hard to describe. It's so chilled out that it feels like you've stepped back in time. Again it was stupidly hot when we arrived. I checked into The Sanctuary hotel, my favourite hotel of the trip because it had so much character and made me feel like I was on some kind of spa retreat - money goes along way when it comes to accomodation in Laos. There was then some time to explore the banks of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. The country was under French rule for a while so the architecture is a blend of Asian and colonial with low wooden houses and bakeries on every corner. As dusk descended on the Mekong river, which offered some breathtaking views and photo opportunities, we stopped for dinner at the awesome Tamarind Restaurant. Lao cuisine is unheard of in Western Europe but so so good. Its less spicy than Thai food but full of flavour. We filled up on lemon and ginger shapes, nibbles, crispy seaweed. stuffed lemongrass and steamed fish in banana leaf. Such a great meal! The restaurant also had a cooking school which I would have loved to have tried if I'd have had the time. Then it was off to the nightmarket. This was by far the best nightmarket I encountered in Asia, so if you're going make sure you leave some space in your luggage for it. It's full of handmade wares so I stocked up on beautiful silk scarves, jewellery made from bullets, handpainted parchments, fans, woven handbags, harem pants and more. One of the things that struck me about this market was the politeness of the vendors. No pressure to buy, easy to haggle, and so lovely that twice when I got confused by the currency and overpaid by ten times the amount the vendors gave me back my money no questions asked when I returned an hour later. I almost felt bad haggling by my third night at the market because the people were so nice.
The next day started with a temple tour ... they really are breathtaking in Laos filled with giant buddhas and populated by monks. It was so hot that one of the monks came out to give us some glasses of water to cool down. After some temple hopping we boarded a boat on the mekong for a relaxing ride down to the Pak Ou caves. Pulling in to a makeshift pier and climbing up some steps in the rock face reveals a small cave with over 2,000 buddhas of every shape and size. It was a really serene spot. Then we crossed the river and had lunch on the riverside - another great example of Lao cuisine with some minced pork with coriander and sticky rice. The view of the beaches, mountains, river and elephants was spectacular.
Then it was our turn to ride elephants. We strolled through a small village and arrived at the elephant camp. I already posted about my elephant riding experience. They are majestic animals who I loved petting and feeding and despite the scenic surroundings I preferred feeding them to riding them. After a bumpy ride back to the city I was exhausted so made a quick pitstop at the night market and grabbed a quick snack at Joma's bakery - a favourite with backpackers in the area. I wish we had a Joma's back home, their frozen lemon and mint shakes and peanut butter cookies are amazing.
The next day we took a bus to the Kuang Si waterfalls. One of the girls I met on the trip who had travelled substantially in Asia described these as 'the only waterfalls in Asia that live up to their expectations'. She was right .. wow!!! Even walking to the waterfalls among the vibrant flowers and with butterflies flying around you is scenic enough but then you turn a corner and pools of baby blues and aqua and green cascade before you and take your breath away. You can't bathe in most of the falls so its a great chance to soak in the view. There is a seperate bathing area towards the bottom of the falls, although you need to cover up to swim in it (most tourists ignore the signs but this was deemed very disrespectful by the locals). Given the heat on the day swimming was just what we needed and we swam around, getting our feet nibbled by the fish in the pools. On the way out we stopped by the bear sanctuary and watched some beautiful black bears getting fed.
Once back in the city I bought some Beer Lao and sat at one of the riverside bars watching the world go by .. I totally switched off in Luang Prabang. Then I checked out the ethnology museum where the local guide explained to me the courting rituals of the Lao hill tribes ... for example did you know that in some tribes if a man picks up a girl and carries her into his house she is bound to marry him so all the girls walk around in groups so that noone unsuitable can carry them off? It was genuinely interesting. It also showcased how the men that were the best pottery makers and basket weavers were the most sought after grooms and those who couldn't master the skill were often cast out of the village - the men of Europe would seriously struggle to survive there! After watching a video of a Lao wedding (including the gory cow slaughtering ritual) I got asked out by my very young looking Lao museum guide. I quickly made excuses to leave as wasn't really looking for a date when I went in there - plus its illegal for Lao nationals to hook up with locals even if I wanted to lol. At around 5pm it was time to go watch the sunset at the top of Phousy (comically pronounced Pussy) Hill. There were a lot of tourists and the day was foggy so it wasn't the clearest sunset I've ever seen but you get great views of the city from the top of the hill and we got to meet some local school kids who were trying to practice their English.
The next day was one of my favourite days. We got up before 5am to go to an almsgiving ceremony with the monks. Basically every day the monks go out at sunrise and walk through the village with some big bowls and the locals offer them food for the day. It has to be cooked as monks are not allowed to cook, so it was mainly sticky rice and fruit - although it amused me that since some of the monks are only children alot of the offerings are biscuits, chocolates and oreos. Not quite traditional but welcome by the smaller monks. It was great to be a part of this. I handed my camera to someone else as I didn't want to be one of those annoying tourists that stands in the way of the monks and got stuck into the ceremony. It really was quite humbling and good for the soul.
After a quick powernap I went exploring. It was fairly early so the only people around were the local fisherman wading in the river, the women going to market to buy food and the monks collecting their alms. Sometimes it's great to just immerse yourself in city life. People always ask me how I can travel on my own. One of the things I love about it is to be able to just 'be' somewhere. No distractions. No banter. Just being there and watching the world go by. I went to Peninsula Massages to get a Lao massage (it is highly recommended by most bloggers and reviewers and is located next to Vat Xieng temple). A Lao massage is definitely an experience I'd recommend. The small Asian woman lay me on a mat on the floor and then proceeded to crawl all over me, pulling at my joints and digging her knees and elbows into my rib cage. It was a very deep tissue massage and I winced at one point but for abour £4 for an hour long full body massage it was great value and I left feeling totally relaxed. Then I had lunch at a great restaurant on the riverside. I was the only person on the restaurant and loved having the time to absorb the views across the river whilst savouring my tamarind and coconut curry.
If you're in South East Asia make sure you don't miss out on Luang Prabang! Its a definite must see for anyone looking to relax and absorb some culture.
Next stop: Hanoi!
This was one of my favourite stops on the trip. There's a vibe about the place that's hard to describe. It's so chilled out that it feels like you've stepped back in time. Again it was stupidly hot when we arrived. I checked into The Sanctuary hotel, my favourite hotel of the trip because it had so much character and made me feel like I was on some kind of spa retreat - money goes along way when it comes to accomodation in Laos. There was then some time to explore the banks of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. The country was under French rule for a while so the architecture is a blend of Asian and colonial with low wooden houses and bakeries on every corner. As dusk descended on the Mekong river, which offered some breathtaking views and photo opportunities, we stopped for dinner at the awesome Tamarind Restaurant. Lao cuisine is unheard of in Western Europe but so so good. Its less spicy than Thai food but full of flavour. We filled up on lemon and ginger shapes, nibbles, crispy seaweed. stuffed lemongrass and steamed fish in banana leaf. Such a great meal! The restaurant also had a cooking school which I would have loved to have tried if I'd have had the time. Then it was off to the nightmarket. This was by far the best nightmarket I encountered in Asia, so if you're going make sure you leave some space in your luggage for it. It's full of handmade wares so I stocked up on beautiful silk scarves, jewellery made from bullets, handpainted parchments, fans, woven handbags, harem pants and more. One of the things that struck me about this market was the politeness of the vendors. No pressure to buy, easy to haggle, and so lovely that twice when I got confused by the currency and overpaid by ten times the amount the vendors gave me back my money no questions asked when I returned an hour later. I almost felt bad haggling by my third night at the market because the people were so nice.
The next day started with a temple tour ... they really are breathtaking in Laos filled with giant buddhas and populated by monks. It was so hot that one of the monks came out to give us some glasses of water to cool down. After some temple hopping we boarded a boat on the mekong for a relaxing ride down to the Pak Ou caves. Pulling in to a makeshift pier and climbing up some steps in the rock face reveals a small cave with over 2,000 buddhas of every shape and size. It was a really serene spot. Then we crossed the river and had lunch on the riverside - another great example of Lao cuisine with some minced pork with coriander and sticky rice. The view of the beaches, mountains, river and elephants was spectacular.
Then it was our turn to ride elephants. We strolled through a small village and arrived at the elephant camp. I already posted about my elephant riding experience. They are majestic animals who I loved petting and feeding and despite the scenic surroundings I preferred feeding them to riding them. After a bumpy ride back to the city I was exhausted so made a quick pitstop at the night market and grabbed a quick snack at Joma's bakery - a favourite with backpackers in the area. I wish we had a Joma's back home, their frozen lemon and mint shakes and peanut butter cookies are amazing.
The next day we took a bus to the Kuang Si waterfalls. One of the girls I met on the trip who had travelled substantially in Asia described these as 'the only waterfalls in Asia that live up to their expectations'. She was right .. wow!!! Even walking to the waterfalls among the vibrant flowers and with butterflies flying around you is scenic enough but then you turn a corner and pools of baby blues and aqua and green cascade before you and take your breath away. You can't bathe in most of the falls so its a great chance to soak in the view. There is a seperate bathing area towards the bottom of the falls, although you need to cover up to swim in it (most tourists ignore the signs but this was deemed very disrespectful by the locals). Given the heat on the day swimming was just what we needed and we swam around, getting our feet nibbled by the fish in the pools. On the way out we stopped by the bear sanctuary and watched some beautiful black bears getting fed.
Once back in the city I bought some Beer Lao and sat at one of the riverside bars watching the world go by .. I totally switched off in Luang Prabang. Then I checked out the ethnology museum where the local guide explained to me the courting rituals of the Lao hill tribes ... for example did you know that in some tribes if a man picks up a girl and carries her into his house she is bound to marry him so all the girls walk around in groups so that noone unsuitable can carry them off? It was genuinely interesting. It also showcased how the men that were the best pottery makers and basket weavers were the most sought after grooms and those who couldn't master the skill were often cast out of the village - the men of Europe would seriously struggle to survive there! After watching a video of a Lao wedding (including the gory cow slaughtering ritual) I got asked out by my very young looking Lao museum guide. I quickly made excuses to leave as wasn't really looking for a date when I went in there - plus its illegal for Lao nationals to hook up with locals even if I wanted to lol. At around 5pm it was time to go watch the sunset at the top of Phousy (comically pronounced Pussy) Hill. There were a lot of tourists and the day was foggy so it wasn't the clearest sunset I've ever seen but you get great views of the city from the top of the hill and we got to meet some local school kids who were trying to practice their English.
The next day was one of my favourite days. We got up before 5am to go to an almsgiving ceremony with the monks. Basically every day the monks go out at sunrise and walk through the village with some big bowls and the locals offer them food for the day. It has to be cooked as monks are not allowed to cook, so it was mainly sticky rice and fruit - although it amused me that since some of the monks are only children alot of the offerings are biscuits, chocolates and oreos. Not quite traditional but welcome by the smaller monks. It was great to be a part of this. I handed my camera to someone else as I didn't want to be one of those annoying tourists that stands in the way of the monks and got stuck into the ceremony. It really was quite humbling and good for the soul.
After a quick powernap I went exploring. It was fairly early so the only people around were the local fisherman wading in the river, the women going to market to buy food and the monks collecting their alms. Sometimes it's great to just immerse yourself in city life. People always ask me how I can travel on my own. One of the things I love about it is to be able to just 'be' somewhere. No distractions. No banter. Just being there and watching the world go by. I went to Peninsula Massages to get a Lao massage (it is highly recommended by most bloggers and reviewers and is located next to Vat Xieng temple). A Lao massage is definitely an experience I'd recommend. The small Asian woman lay me on a mat on the floor and then proceeded to crawl all over me, pulling at my joints and digging her knees and elbows into my rib cage. It was a very deep tissue massage and I winced at one point but for abour £4 for an hour long full body massage it was great value and I left feeling totally relaxed. Then I had lunch at a great restaurant on the riverside. I was the only person on the restaurant and loved having the time to absorb the views across the river whilst savouring my tamarind and coconut curry.
If you're in South East Asia make sure you don't miss out on Luang Prabang! Its a definite must see for anyone looking to relax and absorb some culture.
Next stop: Hanoi!